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Larry Donnelly Cuts, crisps and pints - my controversial Irish preferences

This holiday week, Larry Donnelly shares his favourite Irish snacks and drinks.

IN DECEMBER, WHEN I have some head space and a break from the daily grind, I reflect upon the unusual trajectory of my life. As I say to friends, neighbours and colleagues, if you had told me in 2000 where I’d be living and what I’d be doing almost a quarter of a century later, I’d have questioned your sanity.

On this occasion, though, after a whirlwind of analysing extraordinary elections and ahead of making a family trip to Washington, DC and my cherished hometown, I am basking in a bit of relative peace and quiet. My thoughts have been revolving around just how good this country has been to and for me.

I was extremely lucky to have had an Irish passport since I was a boy and luckier still that Professor Gerard Quinn took a chance on a young, disenchanted Boston lawyer in search of a new career and offered me a one year fellowship to teach legal research and writing in Galway, my ancestral home, in 2001. The rest is history. They couldn’t get rid of me.

In addition to these and other similarly weighty considerations, I have been pondering more trivial subjects. Like everyone, I have my own peccadilloes when it comes to food and drink, plenty of which – I am reliably informed by my wife – render me eccentric or a total weirdo. Following 12 months of writing about American and Irish politics, I thought this might be a fitting moment to sketch out a few of them and invite the ire of the readership.

The favourites

First, I much favour corned beef over bacon. In Massachusetts, it is instilled in us that people in Ireland eat corned beef, cabbage and spuds on a frequent basis. That obviously is not true. Bacon, which is entirely different to the greasy, crispy stuff we have in the United States, is the meat in the national dish.

fresh-tasty-corned-beef-sandwich-in-brown-bread-isolated-against-a-white-background-with-no-people-and-a-clipping-path A corned beef sandwich. Alamy Stock Photo Alamy Stock Photo

On the flip side, some here insist that they grew up without even having heard of corned beef and never saw it for sale. I don’t understand how. It is available in all supermarkets and butcher shops, and it is a staple item at many carveries. My father-in-law said that it always was.

At any rate, nothing beats the flavour of a perfectly cooked slice of corned beef, ideally with a little sliver of fat at the edges and accompanied by a healthy dollop of English mustard. It is complemented well by potatoes and veg or is excellent in a white bread sandwich. I do enjoy bacon, but if given the option, I will go for corned beef 95 times out of 100.

Second, and this is a close call, I slightly prefer Murphy’s to Guinness. This will probably come as a shock to Darren Cusack and Co at Mulligan’s of Poolbeg Street, Emma Rice and the crew at Wicklow Golf Club and the staff at several other hostelries which I frequent and where I rapidly consume gorgeous pints of Guinness. Yet, I am a huge fan of the sweeter caramel/coffee scent of the stout of the south.

outdoor-sign-for-murphys-draught-irish-stout-made-at-murphys-brewery-in-cork-ireland Alamy Stock Photo Alamy Stock Photo

On visits to Cork, I do my best to get into the Hi-B and the Welcome Inn to drink a couple of fantastic pints of Murphy’s, prior to an invariably outstanding meal at Market Lane. I am yearning for it all as I type. A trip to Cork is definitely on the itinerary.

Third, and this one is no contest in my humble opinion, O’Donnell’s crisps are vastly superior to what may be the quintessential Irish brand, Tayto, which countless emigrants home for Christmas surely couldn’t wait to start munching on from the minute they deplaned. I am not saying that Taytos are terrible; they are decent, and I eat too many of them if they are put in front of me.

a-crisp-sandwich-comprising-a-packet-of-ridged-crisps-inside-two-slices-of-plain-or-batch-bread-including-the-heel-which-everyone-knows-is-the-best-part Alamy Stock Photo Alamy Stock Photo

In taste and in substance, however, they do not compare to O’Donnell’s. On the latter feature, this delicious product derived from Seskin Farm in Co Tipperary is full bodied with a great crunch. Taytos, conversely, can be flimsy and verging on soft.

With respect to the former element, there is a litany of amazing varieties – running from the traditional Salt and Vinegar and Cheese and Onion to Ballymaloe Relish and Cheddar Cheese and Fire Roasted Buffalo Wings. It’s a bad idea to buy a large bag because they are very hard to stop devouring. They don’t last long in our house.

By now, it may be crystal clear as to why my better half and two sons often describe me as a strange individual. Their defamatory accusations aside, I am confident that many of the more sophisticated among you concur with my choices. And no matter what you’re eating and drinking on these lovely, lazy days, I hope you have a wonderful 2025.

Larry Donnelly is a Boston lawyer, a Law Lecturer at the University of Galway and a political columnist with TheJournal.ie.

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    Mute Anthony Curran
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 11:31 AM

    Rockin up to the Oscars in an RUC landrover, gwan the lads!

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    Mute Ollie McGlinchey
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 11:37 AM

    @Anthony Curran: Anything to take away from the actual content.

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    Mute Anthony Curran
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 3:06 PM

    @Ollie McGlinchey: Ok boomer.

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    Mute Anthony Curran
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    Aug 3rd 2024, 1:24 AM

    @John P Doe: Ye ragin’? Lol

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    Mute sean weir
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    Aug 3rd 2024, 3:05 PM

    @John P Doe: dick

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    Mute Jimmy The Mink
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 12:12 PM

    They’re a bit backwards focused for my taste, but nice to see the Irish language. All the best.

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    Mute sean weir
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 12:59 PM

    @Jimmy The Mink: are we backward for wanting the Brits to go home???

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    Mute Jimmy The Mink
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 2:08 PM

    @sean weir:
    I think that you in particular are backwards, yes.

    These people you refer to as “the Brits” have lived there for hundreds of years and love it and consider it to be home as much as you do.

    And your want to “get them out” is backwards as there will never be a United Ireland if it is not inclusive and for all. Even Sinn Fein came to understand this (eventually) and it is chamiponed in the green and orange stripes of the Irish flag, if only those who wave it so frantically would take a moment to look at it.

    So yes, you a backward. A (dim) dinosaur.

    When there is a United Ireland it will be because of people like me, not you.

    You’re just a remnant, an obstacle.

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    Mute Jimmy The Mink
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 4:13 PM

    @Pad: you could use that logic to justify Israel kicking out the Palestinians Pad.

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    Mute Jimmy The Mink
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 4:25 PM

    @Pad: Ah Pad, it’s not if you go back far enough which is what you’re doing in N Ireland.

    Anyway, have a nice long weekend.

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    Mute Hector turtlehead
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 5:08 PM

    @sean weir: yes. Backwards as backwards can be.

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    Mute sean weir
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    Aug 3rd 2024, 3:10 PM

    @Jimmy The Mink: are you retarted?
    The 6 countries have been policed by the British army since 1968.
    Pray tell me who are these soldiers that have lived there for 100,s of years.
    If you are talking about unionists and you think that they are the Brits in”brits out” it shows you don’t have a clue about what is happening in you own country

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    Mute sean weir
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    Aug 3rd 2024, 3:18 PM

    @John P Doe: Brits out is not about unionists,it’s about the British government and army ,the fact that You don’t know that is astonishing to me.

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    Mute Pat Hazzard
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 12:17 PM

    Another embarrassment for Ireland. Its like sending a rapping Bin Laden group

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    Mute sean weir
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 12:58 PM

    @Pat Hazzard: it’s amazing with you southern lads ,we are to Irish for the Brits but not Irish enough for the dubs,
    In only 100 years you have convinced yourselves that we don’t exist

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    Mute Michale Kane
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 2:00 PM

    @Pat Hazzard: Stephen you were such an embarrassment to FF they kicked you out.

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    Mute SerotoninWars
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 6:09 PM

    @Pat Hazzard:

    ‘Osama bin Mohammed bin Awad bin Laden was a Saudi Arabian-born Islamist dissident and militant leader who was the founder and first general emir of al-Qaeda from 1988 until his death in 2011′

    Kneecap are a trio of p*ss taking rascals who have never harmed anyone. Who have friends in the PUL community who understand that there’s some humour to be found in all the tragedy and identity politics. They haven’t made a single threat made against any state. No holy wars declared either.

    I don’t think it’s like ‘sending a rapping Bin Laden group’ at all!

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    Mute Robert Halvey
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    Aug 3rd 2024, 3:24 AM

    @Pat Hazzard: ah paddy lad take off your ffg blueshirt for a minute someone might give you a hug

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    Mute sean weir
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    Aug 3rd 2024, 3:20 PM

    @John P Doe: “you lot”
    You really are some west Brit P.O.S

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    Mute Ollie McGlinchey
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 11:36 AM

    Shame the music and rapping is awful.

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    Mute Setanta O'Toole
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 12:18 PM

    @Ollie McGlinchey: it’s not though. Get your brits out is a banger. The song with Grian Chatten is very good too.

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    Mute Anthony Curran
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 3:07 PM

    @Ollie McGlinchey: Vanilla Ice and Will Smith more your thing Ollie?

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    Mute Hector turtlehead
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 5:09 PM

    @Setanta O’Toole: more like a clanger

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    Mute Sean Morris
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 2:05 PM

    On vacation in New York. Seen a poster of them in Manhattan. Had to take a second look just to be sure. Put a smile on face.

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    Mute Darragh Mcnamara
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 1:22 PM

    Pat Hazzard is a C L O W N

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    Mute Michale Kane
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 2:01 PM

    @Darragh Mcnamara: it’s one of Stephen Kearons multiple personalities

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    Mute anthonyjames. byrne.
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 5:35 PM

    @Michale Kane: the same Stephen Kearon who is a great admirer of Thatcher..no surprise there.

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    Mute Michale Kane
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 5:57 PM

    @anthonyjames. byrne.: and the black an tans. Imagine how bad you have to be to get kicked out of FF.

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    Mute Jack Hayes
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 1:38 PM

    Not everything is for everyone.

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    Mute Michale Kane
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 2:01 PM

    @Jack Hayes: Like colonialism

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    Mute tony mc g
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 5:38 PM

    One can imagine the hysterical condemnation if there was a punkish rapping band going around with union jack Balaclavas and purporting to represent the Shankill and the unionist community.

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    Mute Michale Kane
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 5:59 PM

    @tony mc g: They have their marching and burning Tony, even have a special month dedicated to it !

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    Mute Jimmy The Mink
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 8:23 PM

    @Michale Kane: and what does the world think of that Michaela?

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    Mute Hector turtlehead
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 5:07 PM

    Oscars have gone downhill then

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    Mute Michale Kane
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 6:00 PM

    @Hector turtlehead: lol. …. that’s what done it for ya eh!

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    Mute Patrick J. Ryan
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    Aug 2nd 2024, 5:12 PM

    Ní ceapaim

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    Mute stella Ormes
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    Aug 4th 2024, 12:31 PM

    Why not just send the Wolfe Tones to sing Up The Ra and save us any futher embarrassment?

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