TheJournal.ie uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Click here to find out more »
Dublin: 10 °C Monday 20 May, 2013

Photos: Here’s what life is like on an Indian reservation

One journalist spent a week on a reservation in America documenting crime, history and the harsh terrain. Here’s what he saw.

THE WIND RIVER Indian Reservation is not an easy place to get to – but one reporter had to see it for himself.

Thirty-five-hundred square miles of prairie and mountains in western Wyoming, the reservation is home to bitter ancestral enemies: the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes.

Even among reservations, it’s renowned for brutal crime, widespread drug use, and legal dumping of toxic waste.
But no matter how much you hear about Wind River, there always seemed to be something unsaid. Business Insider reporter Robert Johnson spent over a week there and in the nearby towns, and described it as “perhaps the most dramatic and unbalanced place I’ve ever been”.

In the following photographs he documents what he saw from his week-long stay, in an effort to portray the plight and the perils of these forgotten tribes.

The Wind River reservation in central Wyoming is surrounded by a landscape most people have never seen.

Wyoming

As you get closer to the reservation, it’s hard to miss the railroad that’s been steaming through here for over 100 years.

Train

Signs like this memorialise a vicious event carried out in 1864 when a group of Indian soldiers left their camp under a flag of truce to go and make peace with US troops. When the soldiers left a US Army colonel swept in and murdered the estimated 163 women and children left behind. Throughout the reservation there are many memorials to the people who died.

Sand Creek massacre

The Wind River reservation itself  covers 3,500 square miles where the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes were forced by the US to share the land in 1868. Before being forced to share the reservation, the two tribes had been enemies. Wind River is so large that it surrounds a handful of towns on all sides. Strangely, this makes it feel even more remote than it is.

Wind River

With so much space and hardly a neighbour for miles, you might think Wind River was a peaceful place where native culture quietly carries on into the modern day. But you’d be wrong.

Neighbours

Wind River is in fact a particularly deadly place to call home. The locals refer to different streets by famously violent US locations like Compton in southern Los Angeles.

House

The New York Times came out here last year after the brutal murder of a 13-year-old girl by her brother and a friend at this trailer. The pictures are blurry because when I raised the camera to take them, the school teacher who was showing me the reservation screamed that I was going to get us killed. She did not view this as an exaggeration. She seemed genuinely terrified.

Trailer

Wind River may also be one of the most actively polluted places in the United States. An investigation last year revealed that oil companies operating on the reservation are using a legal loophole to justify allowing oil wastewater to flow freely into open pits on Wind River.  The toxins end up in water used by Wind River ranchers, and winds up in the cattle.

Pollution

The beef from the cattle is part of the wide selection of fresh meat here at a store in the centre of the Reservation. Interestingly, the grocery store sells no alcohol. Neither do any of the reservation’s four casinos.

Store

The dry Reservation is an effort to keep alcoholism and the domestic issues that follow it at bay.

Noticeboard

The closest place to get a drink is here, at a bar just off the reservation. Behind the steel door are a couple of pool tables in a room wallpapered with centrefolds and pages from porn magazines.

reservation bar

The ‘no alcohol’ tactic hasn’t worked particularly well. One nearby park just outside the reservation has become a popular drinking spot among residents of Wind River. The teacher I am with says her student sometimes have to come here looking for their parents.

Park

The school is near the park and I walk over to look around. Its central architectural feature is a representation of a gigantic tom-tom. Life here is heavy on tradition that fights with the present.

Tom tom school

Drug use is rampant – from schoolkids sniffing deodrant, to alcoholism, to crystal meth. My guide says everything is for sale on the Reservation, in some way or another. Because there is so little law enforcement, crime is high and law breakers can hide almost indefinitely from police.

Problems

This traditional classroom once taught generations of Native Americans. The likelihood a student on the Reservation today will go on to complete college is slim. Anyone showing too much desire to leave is called an ‘apple’ by classmates: red on the outside but white within.

Classroom

The most prominent European presence on the reservation is still the Catholic Church.

Catholic church

Like everything else, Catholicism on the Reservation is a blend of native belief and outside tradition.

Catholic

Not far from the church is the Reservation’s community centre and post office.

Post office

The cultural centre forbids children from speaking English within its walls as it passes down the native dialect.

Culture centre

Residents of the Reservation benefit from some programmes funded by the government. Food is provided by this distribution centre and all residents receive monthly cheques from oil revenue.

food oil

There’s a fatalism here that’s hard to describe. A kind of unfocused anger. And, before I leave, I am told not to come back alone.

fatalism

(All images: Robert Johnson – Business Insider Military and Defence)

Photos: Stunning images of Japan 100 years ago >

Published with permission from:

Business Insider
Business Insider is a business site with strong financial, media and tech focus.

Read next:

Comments (43 Comments)

  • What a sad end to the proud tribes that once roamed free in America !

    Reply
  • Thank you for bringing attention to the Native Americans and how they live. My husband and I drove through New Mexico and Arizona a few years back, full of innocence about how the Indians lived and survived. History doesn’t tell the half of it. Any reservation we came across was in a dry, barren, desolate area, no one could eke a living out of the land although we saw some horses in corrals, but very little actual grass for feeding. The poverty was just heartbreaking and in the Navajo nation there are a lot of very talented artists and craftspeople but they too are just about eking out a living. No alcohol in sight, run down homes and trucks, people who seem to have lost their spirit. My heart was broken to think that the so called powers that be could do this to such a proud people and pretend it was for their own good? God help them, I don’t know how they keep going. You’d have to see it first hand to understand how bad it is.

    Reply
  • I have Indian friends living in Nevada. I visit at least once or twice a year. They live on a relatively small reservation and yes it is located in a fairly remote area. Not a lot to do there but thanks to good community leaders things are not as bad as described in the article above. Listening to their history it is hard not to feel sympathy for the native Americans because of the way their land was taken from them. I have been told by them that the Federal government still owe many millions of dollars in compensation hence the subsidies the Indians receive. Their spirituality is awesome and many still speak their own language. Sadly most young Indians have to got to the big towns and cities to get employment and of course they lose a lot of the native traditions etc. They are a lovely people.

    Reply
  • Very similar to settlements in Austrailia, especially to ones north of Cairns. Prohibition, drug abuse domestic voilence, and general lawlessness.

    Reply
  • mutabi 02/03/13 #

    I live on an Indian reservation in Oklahoma. My neighbors are Indian, my friends are Indian. They are a great people, but have their problems. Indians are horrible drunks. Tribes work hard to keep alcohol away from them as this article touched on. For whatever reason, genetics/culture, alcohol turns them into alcoholics.

    Apart from that, boy do they know how to run a casino! Indian casinos here are ALMOST as common as churches.

    I was born in Ireland, lived most of my life in Ireland, and now I get to hear my neighbors doing their Indian chants/drum beats most evenings. Life is strange but good.

    Reply
  • Sad story, recommended reading is Dee Brown’s ‘Bury my Heart at Wounded Knee’, and the film ‘Soldier Blue’ is quite an eye opener about the attempted genocide of an entire race. the story of what the Choctaw Tribe did for this country during the famine despite what was inflicted on them is inspirational.

    Reply
  • mister 02/03/13 #

    A very enlightening piece. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
  • It’s no surprise that oil companies found a legal loophole through which they could dump their crap there. For further enlightenment, read Leslie Marmon Silko’s ‘Almanac of the Dead’.

    Reply
  • Liam 02/03/13 #

    This is a truly shocking story, such despair these people live through, when the author said “There’s a fatalism here that’s hard to describe. A kind of unfocused anger. And, before I leave, I am told not to come back alone.” This is the most telling aspect for me, anger can be a great motivator, however if you can’t direct it towards something then it can be very counter-productive. I hope the native Americans can rebuild their communities and their lives and the first thing to do is to stop fighting amongst themselves and to try to find cohesion.

    Reply
  • So how is the casino money helping these people, something stinks of corruption among the Indian Tribal Council here very sad indeed.

    Reply
  • Corralled onto reservations and treated like animals for generations- victims of the arrogance of ‘manifest destiny’.
    Bring back the American Indian Movement of the 60′s!

    Reply
    • And yet American troops are in every corner of the globe fighting for “freedom” and the USA loves to boast about the freedom in that country. There are areas in the US that if they were in Africa, Concern or Oxfam would be there. God bless America, the land of the free and the home of the brave – not!

      Reply
  • If you get the chance you should eat on a reservation. Best food I ever had. Navajo fried bread with honey, unreal

    Reply
  • neo1 02/03/13 #

    In the land of the free and the home of the brave..sick what the white man did to them.talk about crimes against humanity

    Reply
  • Jesus, that’s depressing. So terrible what was done to the native Americans.

    Reply
  • The white race turned out to be the true savages in America.

    Reply
  • Good article. I believe the majority of reservations all over north American have similar issues

    Reply
  • The Sand Creek massacre was committed by Colorado militia and not the US Army.

    Reply
  • Yet another example of non integration into main stream society and the slip into ghetto type areas . There has to be a balance between traditions and modernism for a culture to grow in tandem with society as a whole .
    Perhaps we should take note and not let our own country fall for the same mis managed cultural divid .

    Reply
    • A cultural divide is vital for their well-being. Being subsumed into the US capitalist system hasn’t worked for them. Pride in their language and culture are vital. Aping the coloniser only brings deep internal personal problems

      Reply
  • @P. “If it weren’t for European immigrants” they’d still be living in an unspoiled paradise. These people were butchered and enslaved because they saw the obvious truth: western so-called progress is a crock of shit.

    Reply
  • Where are the people in those photos?

    Reply
  • Spot on, Brian.

    Reply
  • Wow. This just astonishes me. A nomadic people forced into settled communities, marginalised by the rest of the population and ending up in a vicious cycle of crime, drugs, low mortality rates, lack of education, etc. and look at the sympathy expressed by the Irish commenters above. Now, replace the words Native American or Indian with Traveller and watch the vitriol and hatred grow and the sympathy vanish quicker than you can say boo. Sickening double standards.

    Reply
    • Where exactly are the Irish Traveller reservations here? Must have missed those. Although they have turned quite a few nice towns into worse.

      Reply
    • We call them halting sites and generally cram more people into smaller areas. The exact same social degradation occurs in every single nomadic community when forced into situations not normal for that particular community’s culture. It’s the same with the aboriginals of Australia, the Uyghur of China, the Evenki, Yakut, Nenets, Nganasan, etc of Russia, the Saami of Scandinavia, the Inuit of North America, the Roma of Central and Eastern Europe, etc etc.

      Reply
    • Didnt know our Travellers operated legal casinos..But all the rest is rather true,Travellers and booze dont mix either .

      Reply
  • Ah feck, when I started reading I thought the journal.ie had sent one of its own journalists. I thought ye were gone all CSI and I imagined Sinead from the office doing tumbles and rolls, ducking for cover and what not.

    Reply
  • @ Terry, them? They? Your references make ‘them’ sound subhuman

    Reply
  • If it werent for european immigrants introducing a better way of life , alcohol , christanity ,trial by jury, farming ,etc. The natives would still be living in teepees hunting buffalo. Look at the standards they have now.. support the idle no more movement people.

    Reply
  • as bad as it sounds at least they get dividends from the oil found on their land…here??

    Reply

Add New Comment