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Dublin: 13 °C Monday 20 May, 2013

Column: Reforming our relationship with food can start in schools

Bodily wellbeing is a neglected subject in schools, writes UCD lecturer Frank Armstrong, even when it is a prime training ground for encouraging healthy lifelong habits.

Frank Armstrong

SOCRATES: I’ll be judged the way a doctor would be, when prosecuted by a manufacturer of sweet-treats before a jury of young children – Plato, Gorgias 521e

Ireland can expect a 72 per cent rise in the incidence of cancer by 2030 according to the WHO. That news item foretells suffering and death for thousands and great expense to purses public and private. It is being put down to an ageing population but we can do more to avert it, beginning in our schools.

You will never know ‘the time nor the place’ it is wearily said. Often one hears stories like: ‘I had an uncle who smoked for eighty years, drank whisky to beat the band and never touched a vegetable but lived, hale and hearty, into his nineties’. That kind of anecdote which implicitly sees health and longevity as the pure expression of genetics, or determined by celestial forces, is often thrown in the face of anyone advocating disease prevention through nutritional and other lifestyle choices.

But the extent to which average life expectancy has increased over the past 200 years across the Western world from about 35 to nearly 80 years of age exposes that fallacy. There is a discernible absence of joined-up thinking in this country. In our education system the measure of success we use, almost exclusively, is academic performance based on test scores. But that measurement disregards another important aspect of an education experience: bodily health.

Having taught previously in secondary schools I am keenly aware that students habitually consume food that will do them serious harm in later life and undoubtedly affects their powers of concentration. I recall one north Dublin school in a disadvantaged area where the canteen consisted of a dispensary for boiling water which would be poured into plastic containers containing dehydrated dried noodles. At least the noodles were not as bad as the chocolate and crisps that seemed to constitute the remainder of the kids’ diet. The Turkey Twizzlers that so outraged Jamie Oliver in his School Dinners series would probably have been an improvement.

In another South Dublin fee-paying school lunches didn’t figure prominently either, with most students bringing their own. Many of them, presumably, replacing lovingly prepared sandwiches for gunge purchased at the prosperous sweet shops that flanked the school.

There is a curious lack of emphasis in Ireland on school lunches, even compared to the UK, despite the vast sums now spent on education. Where they are available, cooks are usually seen as a menial, peripheral figures rather than vital components of any organisation.

Reforming students’ relationship with food is best way to address predicted cancer and obesity rise

Food, and all that it entails, should be given much more importance in the education system and our wider lives. Reforming that relationship would be the best way to address the predicted cancers and reducing obesity. We might even score better in tests! Parts of school grounds could be dedicated to fruit- and vegetable-growing as is now occurring in some far-sighted schools. It would come at the expense of a few sports field but Ireland is not short of space, even in urban areas.

Local councils could allow unproductive green spaces to become allotments for city centre schools. Horticulture can be integrated with the study of science. Engineering skills can be honed constructing glass structures to trap light for sun-loving plants. The wonder of photosynthesis can be demonstrated by a real-life plant and not just with a puzzling diagram. The carbon offset of food grown and consumed in the same location could be calculated. The slavish emphasis on information technology in schools can be redressed by a deeper engagement with the natural world.

Moreover, most students and teachers enjoy being out of doors. Indeed, constantly being in a heated environment is one cause of obesity which is at the heart of many of our health problems. In cool conditions the body burns calories more rapidly in order to stay warm. Fresh air may also help address behavioural issues.

Students can then learn how to cook using produce they grow themselves and develop skills that will serve them in years to come. Cooks will develop a deeper connection to their environment, what the French refer to as terroir. This would be especially beneficial to boys whose domestic skills are often poorly developed.

What is the point is living as long as we do if we are immobilised by disease and muscular wastage?

Considering the degeneration of much of our agriculture as a result of industrial farming it is no wonder that dysfunctional relationships with food have emerged in recent times. An appreciation of fresh, healthy food could deter the onset of eating disorders among teenagers. Studies have shown that the longer we chew the less likely we are to develop obesity (the word gluttony actually derives from the Latin gula: ‘to gulp down or swallow’). Our brains don’t register we are full if we eat too quickly. If we sit down to a social meal such as a school lunch we will take longer over it. A good-sized lunch also leads to much less snacking on convenience foods.

The Industrial Revolution conferred great benefits on humanity, giving us longer life, more time to devote to art and culture, and even, arguably, creating the conditions for meaningful democracy. But the labour-saving convenience that mechanisation confers is beginning to wreak havoc with our bodies. As we put on weight we break down and are afflicted with chronic diseases like cancer. I ask: what is the point in living as long as we do if we are essentially immobilised by disease and muscular wastage? Death awaits us all but we can ensure that we are fit and healthy along the way.

This is crucial to our mental well-being too. The web of activities associated with food offers a path for a society to negotiate our current health and environmental challenges. Far more time should be devoted to growing, preparing and dining than is the case at present. But just as important as our health, according to the sociologist Jean-Claude Kaufmann through the magic of cookery ‘love sometimes grows as we peel onions or knead dough’. The best place to nurture that love is in our schools.

Frank Armstrong is a food writer and lecturer at University College Dublin’s Adult Education Centre.

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Comments (18 Comments)

  • TNR 03/03/12 #

    Lazy parenting is the root of this problem. Stop giving kids money to buy a crap lunch should be the first step

    Reply
  • I am a little surprised that this article has not attracted any comments so far.
    Frank Armstrong voices a very valid concern.

    Reply
    • Exactly. I’m on the student council and I’m trying to get a microwave available to students at lunch so we can bring in pasta and soup etc. But apparently the insurrance wont allow it. So i guess students will have to continue eating lunches consisting os a saussage roll, wedges, fredo bar and coke. Its like the elephant in the room, we know it’s wrong but choose to ignore it, and its causing more deaths through cancer and heart disease than the much more publicised road safety and drugs.

      Reply
  • I agree with other comments posted here. I think the onus lies largely with the parents. I attended primary school in early 90s and all that was provided for us was a half-pint of milk during the summer (which I think we subscribed to anyway) and cups of oxtail soup in the winter, with a few emergency Liga’s in one of the cupboards if a pupil forgot her lunch.

    After that it, your diet was rooted in home habits. I regularly saw classmates bringing in plastic bags full of crisps, fizzy drinks and chocolate for lunch. Though I craved their dietary freedom at the time, I am now very grateful for the “fresh air” (bread ‘n’ butter) sandwiches we were packed away with over the years. My parents never encouraged an over-indulgence in our inbuilt love for fatty, sugary foods and I am very grateful.

    The education system must educate us about a healthy lifestyle; it is not obliged to IMPOSE a healthy lifestyle. Parents must pull their weight too.

    Reply
  • The attitude towards health in this country is absolutely appalling and something that’s been on my mind for a while. I am currently ill and recently decided that eating poorly was unlikely to help me get better so I set about radically changing my diet. It was actually incredibly easy when I really thought about what I was doing to myself. What has been difficult is the horror I meet on a daily basis from everybody else. Somebody actually said to me that they would rather die obese, cancer-ridden and happy than eat lettuce every day. I don’t know why anybody would think it would be possible to be happy while you kill yourself slowly with chips. It’s depressing to know that the ‘here for a good time not for a long time’ attitude has come to its horrible conclusion. Timely article, good to see somebody talking about this at last in this country.

    Reply
  • When you beat in mind that cancer is a metabolic disease, as is heart disease (one of our other biggest killers) its actually rather relevant..

    There is a difference between dying of these things when you are 60 vs perhaps dying of them or something else when you are 80 or 90..

    Reply
  • TNR 03/03/12 #

    Daniel R, the alternative to pasta or soup heated in a microwave surely isn’t fredo bars and coke. There’s a convenience culture of buying poor quality lunch, when I was in secondary we weren’t allowed leave school for lunch so I brought a healthy sandwich. Lots of parents to lazy to make healthy lunch for their children or have healthy options at home.

    Reply
    • I agree, I devote half an hour every night to make a proper lunch that includes a sandwhich with as much live food (salad, grated carrots, tomatoes) as possible. But sandwhiches every day gets monotonous and a microwave would allow those who skip breakfast to make porridge etc. The problem is that parents are as bad as children on nutrition. No one is interested in hearing about healthy eating until it’s too late.

      Reply
    • Daniel R, why don’t you put your soup in a thermos? And make a pasta salad (though pasta is not v healthy, actually, unless it’s spelt pasta, but that’s a whole different discussion). There are plenty of healthy lunches you don’t need to heat up and you can buy healthier options than sausage rolls and bars too. Start by replacing the bars with fruit, eg.

      Reply
  • The fact that a lot of posters consider bread to be a healthy lunch shows how much education on nutrition is really needed.

    Reply
    • Daniel R 04/03/12 #

      Once there’s more volume of filling in the sandwich to bread then it’s alright. I’m not saying bread is healthy- it’s basically sugar, but children/adolescents need the extra calories and you have to enjoy the food too.

      Reply
  • Listen, one day it’s one thing the next another. I well remember campaigns in England of : “Drinka Pinta Milka day” and “Go to work on an egg”, “An apple a day keeps the Doctor away!” All for these three things to later be declared as ‘bad for us all!’ Drink more coffee, drink wine etc. All promoted by one so-called set of experts, only to be roundly dismiseed by others. I think you have to find what is suitable for you as everybody is an individual.
    The people during and for several years after World War Two had what was supposedly a healthier diet, in fact known as a Stone Age diet. But people still died at a younger age from illnesses that were prevalent then: T.B., Influenza, Heart disease, Smallpox and Cancer etc. It seems like the numbers of Cancer sufferers has increased, but it’s just probably down to better detection methods. As one serious illness is controlled or cured another takes its place, HIV Aids being the new plague.

    Reply
    • The go to work on an egg has been brought back, The cholesterol in eggs is HDL or good cholesterol – which displaces LDL or bad cholesterol, making them quite healthy.
      Only thing bad for you with apples is the arsenic they put on them to make them shiny.
      Milk.. Raw milk is good for you, sadly, it’s hard to come by.. Pasteurised milk contains quite an alarming amount of pus and corrupted proteins, thats the main reason people can’t tolerate it.. Plus, it’s made to nourish a growing calf, not humans..

      As far as life expectancy goes, there were some issues with sanitation back then which are no longer issues, but now while we live longer, we also have a higher morbidity rate – which means we spend a larger % of our lives sick with chronic illnesses. This creates a massive burden on the health services..

      Eating healthy could reduce the cost of healthcare by a substantial amount, but it would require each person to take responsibility for looking after themselves, and sadly, for a lot of people used to living in a nanny state, that seems to be the core issue. Why undertake a diet change when the doctor can just give you pills when you get sick?

      Reply
  • Totally disingenuous opening paragraph, Ireland’s expected rise in cancer coincides with an increase in life expectancy. You have to die of something eventually, and the older you are, the more likely it is to be cancer.

    Reply
    • You’re wrong. While it is true that with increased life expectancy and improved diagnostic approaches lead to increased cancer rates, the obesity epidemic has been shown to directly correlate with the rising rates of several cancers. There is increasing research highlighting the immune modulating effects of central obesity on the bodies tumour surveillance pathways. Yours is exactly the kind of ill informed opinion, delivered with such confidence, that underlies why people refuse to invest resources and time into program’s which could tackle the oncoming obesity, type 2 diabetes and cancer epidemics.

      Reply
    • Aydo 03/03/12 #

      Poor quality food, intensively grown, low nutrient value, low mineral value. Ready made packed meals. Chemicals in foods to increase shelf life. Chemicals in water. Pesticides. Poor air quality. Poor lifestyle. Permanent stress.

      All the above plus more contribute to disease. Who knows what the intensity of radio waves, magnetic and electric fields we create do.

      Yes we can maintain life longer now than ever. This creates it’s own problems. Life in finite. Nothing is perfect.

      Reply
  • Daniel R 04/03/12 #

    When I say need the extra calories I mean those who eat a healthy, mostly vegetarian diet of fruit and veg not the ones who eat the sausage rolls and cream egg. They could do with reducing the calories !

    Reply

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